The One Where She Visits Coffee Houses in Salzburg

I have talked a lot about my European adventures, but have failed to mention much about my studies while here in Europe. For classes, I am enrolled in generals here. Philosophy, Art History, German Grammar 360, and Seminar class are what make-up my semester repertoire. I have had such a fun time studying subjects that are outside my major and making me think in different ways. It is good to expand my mind in this way. For my seminar class, it is required that I do an intercultural experience project. This means, that I have to go out and experience something that I can only experience here. I have to relate the topic I am studying to the topics we have covered in class. Other than those requirements, it's pretty free range. So, I thought I would write a quick post about the topic I studied, the adventures I went on, and what I learned from the experience!

What topic?

The topic I chose to study was cafes and coffee houses in Salzburg in the 1700's. I researched the interior and exterior designs of these coffee houses and cafes then, and then I compared the designs of that era to the modern designs that I can see today. I chose this topic because interior design is one of my most favorite things in the world, so this subject really peaked my interest. For the experiential part of the process, I went out and observed the interior and exterior, as well as architectural design, of two cafes and coffee houses in Salzburg today. My first stop was Cafe Tomaselli, as pictured above, and my second stop was Cafe Würfel Zucker. Cafe Tomaselli was originally built in the 1700's and Würfel Zucker in 2006. So I was then able to compare cafe designs then, to modern cafes in Salzburg today.

History of the Topic:

There is some pre-research that went into understanding this topic. I first had to look at typical objects that were used for decorations interiorly in cafes and coffee houses in the 1700's in order to compare them to the designs and decorations I saw today.

Interiorly:

In the interior of the coffee houses, there are a lot of different components that made them what they were during those days. First being first, cafes/coffee houses were an area where social levelers and men indifferent of class came together to talk about politics and enjoy a cup of joe. Coffee houses also were specifically decorated based on the clientele they wished to attract. For example, café’s/coffee houses that wanted to promote social conversation and casual environment typically featured long tables where many people sat in sometimes groups of twenty and discussed their views of the times. Café’s also advertised themselves based on class. For those café’s that wanted to attract the upper class, one could normally find rosy wooden paneling lining the walls or an ornately decorated wallpaper. Café’s decorated to attract the lower class, sometimes called Penny Universities, had white walls with little to no design.

Other things that sprinkled a café or coffee house included coat racks, and hat pegs embellished for salesmen to put their best attire on. Long communal tables were strewn with newspaper and writing implements as many authors worked here during the day. In the 1700’s, Billard tables started to arise so that men could have a friendly game over conversation. Also featured were newspaper racks for those who chose to sit by the window, sipping slowly as they let their eyes carry them through the times. And, as odd as it sounds, some café’s had salesrooms attached where merchants and shippers could auction items. Of course, in accordance with the above statements, it only makes sense that these salesrooms were attached to coffee houses whose walls were lined with ornate wood and polished wall paper. With the mumbled breaths of chess players in the background, one could find a printing press in a few coffee houses at that time so writers and poets could do their work. However, as the promotion of writing arose, so did the need for smaller tables. This was so private conversations could be held, and precious work not copied by others.

Exteriorly:

Typical of the 1700’s, coffee houses and cafés rarely stood alone. The business ran on the bottom floor and the life-style ran on the second. Because the Romanesque period had deep thick walls, large windows were installed to let in light, as well as to make the room feel “lighter” in the sense of visual weight. These windows were typically garnished with colored panes and designs on the top: found most commonly in cafés for the upper class. Contrary to the walls on the inside, the cafes and coffee houses themselves were not made of wood, but rather concrete so that the structure was stable. Since we are in the time period of “Neo-Romanesque,” rounded windows and doors were very prominent and aesthetically pleased the eyes of café goers. In relation to the classical style that was being born again in this time as well, there were “half” columns highlighted on the front side of the café/coffee house by the entrance with large windows situated between them.

In relation to exterior decoration as well as architecture in some form, many café’s/ coffee houses featured an outdoor seating section. Whether this be a terrace, sidewalk café with seated tables, or parasols, all were seen commonly on the streets, most prominently in European and Salzburg culture. If the café was famous enough (financially secure), they would have a separate pavilion where people could order coffee and not stay as long for a coffee. Without getting into too much detail, this shows a form of cultural shift. The only café I found that had/has a pavilion is Café Tomaselli, which is indeed in Salzburg.

The original drawing plans for the Kiosk were on the Tomaselli website, and you can still see today that the kiosk has simply been restored, but never torn down or damaged since it was built in 1860.

Tomaselli History:

Before I show you all what I found in Cafe Tomaselli, I want to talk about its interesting history just so you can see how similar the cafe is today as it was in the 1700's. The cafe was built in the 1700's by the Tomaselli family, and has only ever had one owner that wasn't a member of the Tomaselli family. The opening of the Empress Elizabeth Railway Express in 1860 allowed for the flow of more tourism where people began to boast about the reading nook, games room, and good service. In 1860, they opened the Gazebo which became a new favorite stomping ground. During WWII it became occupied by American forces, and turned into a Red Cross center. After the war, the building was returned to the Tomaselli family. Interior and exterior pictures of the building are shown below. Note that the exact inside of Tomaselli featured in these pictures can still be found today. The mirror walls, portraits, wallpaper, floors, columns, wood walls, and ceiling are all exact 1700's replicas from the far right picture.

Tomaselli Now:

When I walked into Tomaselli it was like I just pushed the curtains back and walked into he 1700's. The working buzz outside died out and the smell of strudel and coffee overtook my senses. This place was classical, elegant, and ornate. It was such a treat to be here. The walls were lined with rosy wood paneling. Decorated into the wood was designs of mythical scenes taking place inside of a shield shaped frame. The only two “physical” decorations I could see were large portraits looking over the visitors of the café almost as if to make sure it was all still running properly. These portraits were situated on an ornate wallpaper and enclosed by gold frames, of course indicating their high class. Sprinkled throughout the café were golden coat racks, some attached to the wooden walls, and others left standing alone. Crystal chandeliers throughout drew my attention to the embellished stucco ceiling. It was purely beautiful in design. Then, I spotted it, my prized newspaper rack. Perhaps one of the most interesting items to me. Surprising to me, it was hidden in the corner and not displayed as openly as I would have liked. The large draping white curtains made the café feel like I was in my Grandmas kitchen. Oh, how welcoming that felt. The walls were also lined with mirrors in places were the wood had not yet reached. Large white, rounded arches made the café open and well-flowing (hint of yet another Romanesque component). Everywhere I looked, there was something new to catch the eye, and the two hours I spent here was not enough for me. Cake isn’t the only thing I’m craving and wanting to go back for.

Cafe Würfel Zucker:

After experiencing a cafe right out of the 1700's, I figured it was time to go to a more modern cafe to see how the two compared. Café Würfel Zucker was built in 2006 and has been running ever since. I saw a lot of interesting interior and exterior components and designs in this cafe as well: and yes they were a lot different than that of Cafe Tomaselli.

Café Würfel Zucker is situated on the second floor, which already contrasts the idea that business was on the bottom in the 1700’s. In regard to the architecture, there was still a lot of large windows lining every outside wall that the coffee house had to offer. After trekking up the stairs, there was rounded wooden doors which were also very popular in the Neo-Romanesque period and something that my eyes had seen in Café Tomaselli. The rounded Romanesque arches inside didn’t open the café, but rather cut off the window seating from the back seating. This café gave off a modern farmhouse vibe in the sense that shiplap was combined with a teal color and rustic design components. The walls were white shiplap representing a very modern taste, and were decorated with paintings from local artists. The expression of the color teal was found anywhere it could be: seat cushions, coffee machine, clock lining, tables clothes, cups, plates…you name it, it had teal on it.

The tables were made of a lighter wood which indicated yet another modern farmhouse component. Comparable to Tomaselli and 1700’s fashion, there were coat hangers throughout the coffee house. A green chalkboard displayed the days menu, and the light fixtures were incased in a rustic brass and very industrial looking. Hidden under the glass stair case were two important objects: a small black piano, and my beloved newspaper rack. The piano stood cold and dusty, must not be played often. The newspaper rack was once again hidden, and attached to a clock that was one massive piece on the wall. It was merely used as a wall decoration. Not a single accent of gold caught my eye in here as teal seemed to be the only thing that fully grasped my attention. This coffee house was not very open and encouraged small conversations, not open ones as Tomaselli did. However, with all this being said, I loved this coffee house inside and out. In regard to housing and interior and exterior decoration, modern farmhouse is my favorite style. This coffee house was a perfect representation of the dream coffee house/café I hope to open someday.

Reflection of What I Learned from This Project:

There are a lot of different things I learned from this project. I believe one of the most important things I learned was how prominent Neo-Romanesque architecture is. In class, we have always talked about this architecture in terms of churches and government buildings, but never on a small scale like coffee houses and cafes. It was really interesting to me to see this architectural design so prominent in both the old and modern cafes. It was nice that the modern cafe kept a touch of its history with it.

I also thought it was interesting how something doesn't have to be modern to be functional. For example, Tomaselli was far from modern as it displayed its 1700's interior and exterior design perfectly. However, this cafe was still just as functional, if not even more than Cafe Würfel Zucker. I believe that this opened my eyes to how important it is to keep the original history and story of the building present in order to display the story the building wants to tell.

Even though I didn't set out to study environments of cafes and coffee houses, I ended up doing so simply by looking at design. The design of the building determined the environment the place had. For example, Tomaselli was an elegant cafe that was classical, had little decoration, and had very formal service. Because of this, the environment was much more elegant, conversation was quiet, service was quick and accurate. The crowd was older, no students were doing homework, and business men were having meetings. There was nothing out of order or disorganized. But, Cafe Würfel Zucker, the modern farmhouse cafe, had a way more relaxed environment were there was students studying, relaxed service, and louder conversation. This was because the designs and decorations of casual artwork, benches with fluffy pillows, and rustic lighting made the environment for a younger crowd.

Finally, it helped me realize what elements I would like to incorporate into my cafe if I ever get the chance to design one with my mom, which has always been a big dream of mine.

This is a topic I hope to continue to explore as I get to travel more and more. The ending to this blog will be different than the rest simply because I just stated what I have learned, and I will save the life lessons for the other adventures that I take:). Thanks for checking out this blog, and for seeing a different side of my study abroad experience in Austria! December is here, and crazy as it sounds, I'll be home in a flash! Merry Christmas season to you all:)

Best wishes always,

Abbey Jean